Alagna is superb. If you are an advanced piste skier who likes a little bit of off-piste at the side of the run, then I would recommend staying in Gressoney La Trinite or Stafal. The quality of the pistes is high in the Gressoney/Champoluc valley; quiet, wide, trees lower down, good snowmaking and very long. There is not much obvious off-piste. As noted in previous comments, at weekends, given the proximity to Milan, the queues can get big at the bottom gondola first thing.

However, if you have AT/tele gear, and a lot of experience, this place is wonderful. Wonderful!! Early in the season with good snow cover, there are some really good itineraries - behind the Bochetta del Pisse chairlift, amazing view into Alagna once you have done the 20 minutes traverse/walk. Skin up the Passo Zube and down the Giachetti Couloir, looking onto Pianalunga. Walk behind the top station at Salati and ski down the short chute into La Balma, then all the way down past the Refugio Pastore. Walk above the top station at Salati for about 50m climb, to enter the large bowl below the unfinished new top lift station. Skin up Punta Vittoria and have a choice of 3 couloirs of varying difficulty.

The lines are endless. A local guide (Find them through Lyskamm Viaggi in the village) is well worth EUR 250-300. If there are 4 of you, it is a small price to pay for an amazing day or two.

Two good places to stay - Residence Mirella (right beside the lifts) and Refugio Guglielmina (top of the Col'D'Olen).

Enjoy